The name “grandfather clock” instantly conjures up images of a dark, musty room, grandpa sitting in his rocking chair, smoking a pipe. Curls of woodsy smelling smoke drift across the room as his faithful old clock strikes the hour. Though the name grandfather is definitely old-fashioned, the clocks aren’t. While much of their technology is a reflection of the earliest clocks, the styles have evolved through the years.

Contemporary grandfather clocks are available in a wide range of styles. Whatever your taste, you are sure to find a clock to match. Today’s grandfather clocks can fit into any décor, including Oriental, Victorian or Minimalist. Moreover, a grandfather clock can become the focal point of a room, with everything else simply accentuating and supporting it.

Howard Miller is one of the world’s largest manufacturers of grandfather clocks ranging in price from $800 to $13,000. Sligh grandfather clocks are famous for their exquisite finish and sound and can be found in both traditional and contemporary designs. Ridgeway grandfather clocks have been made in Ridgeway, Virginia using German movements since 1960. Bulova is a well-known leader in clock craftsmanship manufacturing their line of grandfather clocks in Canada.

No longer just for grandparents, contemporary grandfather clocks are available in a wide variety of styles and price ranges.

e-grandfatherclocks.com Grandfather Clocks Info provides detailed information on antique, contemporary, discount, English, and German grandfather clocks, as well as kits and repair information. Grandfather Clocks Info is the sister site of e-cuckooclocks.com Cuckoo Clocks Web.

Either in the traditional maple or beech wood or an increasingly wider range of exotic hardwoods, the butcher-block countertops have lately become broadly available. While traditionally the butcher blocks were meant to be used for chopping, cutting and slicing meats, nowadays we find that this strictly functional role is slowly left behind and the butcher-block tops are mainly employed on the grounds of the visual effect that wood generates.

In such instances, the wood is commonly finished with polyurethane-based or water-based varnish, acrylic lacquer, stain, or any other sort of build-up finish, which both seals the wood and creates the desired looks. For those few left cases of butcher-block tops that are actively used for food preparation, however, the range of finish choices is substantially narrowed down to the oil finishes, which raises a bit of a problem.

The problem is, the oil finishes are not finishing actually, but more of a continuous treatment to the wood. As soon as the oil is applied onto the wood surface, it will reach, due to capillarity, to the wood core, which will eventually leave the surfaces dry and hence, a new coat of oil will be required. Routine maintenance becomes, therefore, part of the deal since, if the treatment is not carried out periodically, the wood will start exchanging moisture with the environment and, consequently, the wood may swell or warp in an excessively moist climate, or, conversely, crack if the atmosphere is rather dry.

Regular application of oil thus being the only way to secure a long, functional life for your butcher block, it is usually carried out monthly during the first year and once every 4-5 months ever after. Particular circumstances, however, will further adjust the frequency. Wood species with a higher porosity such as beech or oak will require a more frequent treatment than maple, black locust or other similarly tight-grain wood. The pace of wear and tear is another factor to influence how often the re-oiling is to be performed. As the butcher block is sanded down at times in order to remove cut marks and scratches, a new coat of oil must follow each sanding. The blocks extensively used on a daily basis are usually sanded down every couple of weeks or so and hence, the re-oiling would follow the same frequency pattern, too.

When choosing the oil finishing, it is important to select a food-grade inert oil, like walnut oil, tung oil or food-grade mineral oil. Vegetable oils, although safe in contact with foods will eventually go rancid and impart undesired odor and taste. Others, such as the Danish oil, although stable are not suitable for food contact. For increased water-repelling and stain protection properties, mineral oil can be heated, mixed thoroughly with beeswax and immediately applied, the resulting mixture being something in-between a penetrating and a build-up finish.

The oil is applied extremely easy, by pouring it onto the wood surface and then smearing it with a paintbrush, rag or sponge. Never worry about applying too much oil, especially during first time session. When the oil is indeed too much, it will stagnate onto the wood surface for many days and would have to be wiped off with a clean, dry rag or paper towel, but it will take time for the wood to achieve this level of oil saturation. Most often, the oil will go into the wood fiber within a 2 to 24 hours interval. The speed at which the wood will suck the oil in will vary with the type of oil used, the wood species and the grit the wood was sanded at. Woods with a naturally oily fiber, like walnut or black locust, will absorb the finish at a slower pace and so will do the wood polished down to a very smooth surface. Walnut oil generally gets absorbed slower than the mineral oil but faster than the tung oil, which also tends to dry the wood and sometimes raise the fiber.

Three to four coats of oil are required before installation on both topside and bottom one, particularly insisting on the end-grain area, where the wood pores are open wider and the oil is absorbed about twice faster. Following the installation, the re-coating is done on the topside only.

Adrian Laza, Lafor Wood Products. hardwoodcountertops.com hardwoodcountertops.com

There are many things to consider about the home projector in order to get the best possible experience. While some people believe that throwing more money at the problem will fix it, optimizing the home theater experience can be done without spending a fortune.

There has been extensive coverage about buying cheap projectors, DIY projectors, and many other means by which you can save money on a home theater system and still enjoy a quality experience. How to get the most out of your projector without spending a lot of money is an important thing to think about.

Mounting
Not enough can be said about mounting. Proper mounting is very important. But how can that save money? Mounting on a shelf unit often results in dust build up. Keeping the filters clean and making sure that there is plenty of airflow will help you to avoid over heating the projector causing damage which is costly to repair.

Screen Selection
Selecting the proper screen is very important. Not only do you want to get the right screen to fit your home projector needs the first time (Rather than having to purchase another one for more money) but you need to get a screen that is suitable for the location where it will be mounted. Is the screen easily cleaned? If it is soft fabric, will it rip or tear? If it is something that will be easily damaged, can it be stored while not in use?

Screens can be built with protection as well. Using an “artsy” type cabinet covering with pictures, or even a painting of some sort will prevent the dust buildup on the screen, lessening the need to clean it with the potential of damaging it. It will also prevent any ripping, tearing or other damage that may occur to the projection screen due to unforeseen circumstances.

Lamp Care
Make sure that the mounting is such that the projection unit does not get bumped or jarred a lot. Constantly bumping or moving the projector can cause many problems that are costly to repair. The filaments in the head lamps are very fragile, much the same as a mantle in a lantern is. Constantly jostling or bumping the projector will severely shorten the lifespan of the bulb. This will result in costly replacements that should not be needed so frequently. Frequent bumping also causes electronic and circuit boards to lose connection or come loose. This can create the need for costly repairs as well.

Lens Care
Are the optic lenses being adequately protected when they are not in use? The projector optics can be a very expensive replacement part. Lens covers are important. Even if they do not come with the projector when it is purchased, they are well worth the price. Quite frequently, spending a little money up-front can save a great deal of money in unnecessary expenses later on.

Projector Covering
Building a small container, especially for shelf mounted units can offer a unique custom-design and look for the user, and perform vital functions as well. Inclusion of computer fans and a power supply at a very nominal cost will insure sufficient airflow to prevent overheating and prevent much of the dust and dirt from getting into the projection unit where it could harm the optics as well.

An ounce of prevention really is worth a pound of cure if the desired effect is to get the most out of a home projector system without spending a fortune.

Note: This article may be republish for use in websites as long as the author bio and active hyperlinks are kept intact.

Clifford Tan, a Home Theater enthusiast and owner of the website Home Projector Advisor provides reviews, articles and many useful tips and hints on home projectors. To find out more great information about home projection system, visit the site home-projector-advisor.com home-projector-advisor.com

The government often tries to influence our behavior through taxes. The tax credit for new energy efficient cooling systems in our homes is one example.

As part of the provisions in the Energy Policy Act 2005, homeowners are entitled to claim tax credits on use of a few energy saving items. They include the use of energy saving windows, doors, roofing, furnace and boiler, water heater and air conditioner. As energy becomes scarcer by the day, it is essential to conserve as much energy as possible. The government, by way of giving tax credits, also encourages using alternate sources of energy.

Using energy efficient air conditioning systems is one of the items that qualify for tax credit. Individuals who install this type of air conditioner are eligible for a tax credit of up to $300. The models that qualify are obviously costlier than the ordinary ones. However, this calculation would show that it is advisable to install a new energy saving air conditioner. Even if you save just $10 a month on average by way of electricity bills it comes to $120 for a year. Add to that the tax credit of $300, your net saving is $420. This amount should be good enough to prod a homeowner into buying an energy efficient air-conditioner.

Of course, not all air conditioners are eligible for a tax credit. Even, not all Energy Star air conditioners qualify, only some do. Very efficient central air conditioners qualify for the tax credit if they meet the following criteria:

1. The Energy Efficiency Ratio has to be 13.0 or higher (in some states its 12.5).

2. Certified technician needs to install the equipment.

3. The Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER) has to be 15.

SEER measures performance throughout the season and EER measures performance on a very hot day. Central Air conditioning systems must meet the standards set by the Consortium of Energy Efficiency (CEE). The specifications for each state vary slightly.

The tax credit for energy efficient cooling systems in our home is just another step in saving money on both your energy bill and taxes. Since tax credits are reduced from the actual amount of tax you owe, not your gross income, you should strongly consider taking advantage of this one.

Richard A. Chapo is with Business Tax Recovery – providing information on